I have seen stained flooring like joker has done, I was wondering can I paint the floor and put the clear coat over that?

Best to go to Sherwin Williams and talk to them about what you have in mind.
Epoxy paint could be an option. It is used on cement floors and walls. Very nice and you can add alot of flakes to it for color. Many people use it in garages.

There are a few options. The basic thread in all of them will be preparing the floor to hold onto the sealer or take the stain. At a minimum you will need a high speed floor machine and TSP to get up all the grease or foreign material fo the floor. If there is paint then you will have to use a striper or scraper to get it all off.

Your best option would be to hire someone to apply a concrete dye, it looks just like acid stain, and then seal it with a solvent sealer, and 2 coats of NCL ONE wax on top of it. In Houston it would cost about 2.00 to 2.50 a foot and take 2 -3 days. If there is tile, a lot of paint or carpet add another .75 cents.

Here is the low down for coloring your floor:

Concrete water based dye or acetone based dye - This works great for older floors as it will color everything on the floor and it is not a reactive stain like acid stain, but it will still look like an acid stain. Seal with a sovent based acrylic sealer and top with NCL ONE floor wax.

Acid staining- this is a reactive stain that colors the concrete by reacting with the lime in the concrete, if you have an older floor it might not take in certain areas due to stains over the years. Really best for newer floors. Not for floors that had tile or carpet previously. Seal- acrylic solvent sealer, Epoxy or Polyurea.

Sealing your newly colored floor from least to most durable:

Water based acrylic- must be topped with a floor wax like NCL one. The good part is there is very little vapor oders and is non-flammable. Apply two coats it will take about 3 hours for both.

Solvent based acrylic sealers- topped with floor wax. Very flammable extinguish all pilot lights and get good ventalation.
apply 2 coats take about 2-4 hours for both. Return to foot traffic next day. Do not put anything with black rubber on top, it will eat through the sealer

Epoxy- Very tempermental with surface that has moisture issues from underneath. Must get a vapor transmission test to deteemine moisture transmission. The good part of this is you can mix the color right in and apply, but you will a paint like look. The floor must be ground down to an rough surface for the epoxy to stick, don’t do this and it will delaminate. The bad part is that it takes 2-3 days to cure and a week to fully cure. So you are off teh floor about 4-5 days. To do it right you need to top the expoxy with a coat of Urethane. Cost about 4.50 per foot.

Polyurea or polyaspartic- This is 4 times as durable as epoxy and urethane topping is not needed. It cures almost same day and can be returned to use next day. The floor must also be roughed up or acid stained for the polyurea to get a grip on. This stuff is awesome but tempermental to apply. Cost- depends on the coloring technique 3-4 bucks for someone to do it for you. This is the most durable and quickest return to service.

Sherwin Williams does have some of the products but keep in mind that cleaning the floor and the preperation of the floor is the most important part and they do not sell that.

If you are doing this yourself make sure you know the difference between a reactive stain and a dye.

If anyone wants more advice let me know.

here is my issue…its old concrette and its got several golf ball size pits in it. so I will have to fill those in and that’s going to be discolored.
any suggestions?

The discoloration will be noticed if you are using acid reactive stain because there will be different lime ammounts in the patch and the surrounding concrete. For this situation the least expensive is to go with concrete dye. Try Smith’s paints Old World Stain, Ecocrete, Elite Crete, Butterfield or Brickform. WhiteCap carries these products. But you really have two choices.

  1. Resurface the floor with a polymer cement overlay that is about 1/8" inch thick then color how you want. A company will charge you about 4-5 a foot. It will take about 3-4 days.
  2. Get in there with grinder or floor machine and really clean the floor well with a degreaser and then tsp. Fill the hole with product by Mapei, I think thats the spelling, or Ardex or Texture Pave. Then use a cheap bug sprayer from home depot and apply the stain in a circular motion, on the spots that you repaired you can lighter or darker to blend them. If you use a water based stain let it really dry out, if you use an acetone based stain you can seal right away.
    It goes like this:
    Day 1- clean the floor and patch it, this will take all day
    Day 2- stain the floor in the morning and seal some time in the afternoon 2 coats of roll on acrylic solvent sealer. An hour after the sealer dries, start putting on the 2 coats of NCL ONE floor wax. The wax will take about 1.5 to 2 hours to do.
    Day 3- go in put everything in place very carefuly and open for business.

I have done a lot of floors and can tell you that stain floor look great but you have to maintain them. Every 6 months rewax.

IF you are going to do this yourself it might be better to go with a nice tile.


I have a section of stained concrete flooring that looks terrible. The person that did it never sealed or waxed it. It’s quite dirty and looks terrible.

Can I get the floor really clean again and then seal and wax it to get a nice new shine? It’s 5 years old. What would be the best method of cleaning it? Deck scrubbing works but is extremely labor intensive.

The acrylic solvent sealer and NCL ONE floor wax… where can I purchase that at?




I did that and it sucks, u need the oil based stain.

If you do that and etch it properly it will last for ever


It is very unlikly that the floor was stained either with acid or water based stain and not sealed. It really could not be done becasue it would so bad you would no it was not sealed, the sealing brings out the color and iniformity. Try this in an area.

  1. Go to Home Depot and get a wax striper, a gallon of Xylene some TSP substitute.
  2. Use a rag and the wax striper to take off the wax if there is any.
  3. Use a rag and the xylene to take off the sealer if there is any
  4. Use a rag and TSP solution to clean the floor and then rinse it twice with clean water.

Now, splash some clean water on the floor. How does it look wet? This is how the floor will look sealed. When you wax a sealed floor it does not add color it adds a little shiny uniformity and protection of the sealer. The reason a floor breaks down is because the wax wears of then the sealer wears off then the stain comes up. I don’t care if it is acid based or water based they all come up if they are not protected by sealer and wax.

To find stains in your area go to Google and type in “decorative concrete” and “supplies” there will be a place near you.
I say go these places because they can give you, a do it yourselfer, good advice. You can also find these products at WhiteCap, Sherwin Williams. Also do a search for ONE by NCL and you will find a distributor in your area.


There is no oil based stain for concrete. Well let me say this, I don’t want to be one of those “there is no such things” posters. I have been in the decorative concrete business since 2006 and have not heard of oil based staines for concrete. You might mean acetone, alcohol or acid based stain but there is no oil based stain for concrete. Staining a floor seems easy and it can be, but you have to prepare the floor for the stain. I just did a dance studio with a water based stain and acrylic solvent sealer and it turned out awesome. Its like pizza ovens, when someone says what makes the best pizza, it’s all in the configuration for what type of pizza you want to make.

As to water based sealers, they have there place. There are some locations where you just can’t use a solvent based sealer because the smell and flammability of the fumes is just to much.

You said if you etch it it will last forever. Etching the concrete invovles opening up the pores of the concrete with muratic acid and then staining it so the stain can penetrate further. Have you ever done this and then cut the concrete to see how far that stain went in? Try about the depth of 6 pages of paper. the ONLY way a floor will last forever is keeping it sealed and waxed. Like pizza ovens there are people in decorative concrete that only use non-reactive stains like- water, acetone or alcohol and there are those that only use reactive acid based stains because they think the acid in the stain etches the concrete. And it does, but the reality is the floor only stays protected by sealer and wax.

And lastly let me show what Kemiko stains has on their website referring to acid stains. “This specially formulated stain chemically bonds metallic ions with the lime component in the concrete to form various colors that are
permanent.” Yes this is true the top couple of mil’s of the concrete surface is transformed to that color in a chemical reaction. The reality is that without sealer that permanent color will wear off down to plain grey concrete.

can you put the acrylic over cvt tile?

Paint and clear coat might be better on a car. My experience is that paint doesn’t hold up especially well over the long term, and then it can be expensive to remove. An industrial epoxy finish might be a more durable option, and it may not be as slippery when wet.
Tom Lehmann/The Dough Doctor

No sealer over vct. You can put tile with certain limitations and this probably your best option. If you want the stained floor look you will have to remove the vct and grind the floor.

I currently have an epoxy floor, I would love to re do it and look like this
http://www.smithandcompanypainting.com/sitepics/egranitesparkle/Deep%20Blue.jpg any advice?