Gas deck adjustments

I bought an old (1994) deck oven (basically same thing as Baker’s Pride GS805 but Attias brand) to do some test baking with.

I got the pilot lit, but the main burner doesn’t seem to want to go. It is not a problem with the pilot flame sensor bulb above the pilot light that gets hot, because if I hold a match up to the burner, after the rod has warmed up from the pilot, the main burner lights, it just has a very weak flame and doesn’t continue down the rest of the burner. If I hold a match up to the burner without the pilot on, it will not light. So that part is working properly.

I tried adjusting the adjusting disc, no change. I removed the orifice, and i can see right through it, so that doesn’t seem to be the issue.

Any other thoughts?


Is this hooked up at your home? Are you sure you have enough gas pressure?

I do not have a manometer, but it is hooked up in my garage, right next to the meter which maxes out at 275,000 BTU/h, nothing else is currently running. I imagine the pressure is 4-5" WC judging by the 6 other gas appliances in our house that work fine. This deck oven, according to the plate is only 60,000 BTU (less than my furnace).

Ok, are you sure you have the proper regulator? Are you sure the thermostat is working? Those are the only other things I can think of. Hopefully George Mills will stroll by this thread.

Edit: I know this sounds basic, but do you have the temperature turned all the way down? My deck burners just trickle a little bit of gas if the temp is turned all the way down.

I am not sure about the regulator. They told me it is setup for natural gas so I was assuming so? I’m not even sure where the regulator is here

Oddly enough, with the pilot, I don’t need to push in the red button to light the pilot (I thought the red button is supposed to let the gas through?).

I tried the thermostat from all the way up, to middle - 300 or 400 F, no change.

If I turn the main burner valve OFF, what little flame there is definitely does go out, so… I think the valve is OK. I do not smell any amount of gas odor, so my guess is it’s just not letting enough gas through. Not sure on what part that would fall though.

Anyone know what the “P” setting is for , here: … U4154A.pdf (page 13)

Here is my understanding. Gas comes to the pilot safety valve, and if the red button is being pushed, OR if the flame rod senses a flame, it lets get come through to both the pilot orifice, and then lets gas continue through to the main valve if it senses the pilot flame is on. If that main valve is open, then the thermostat does its work. Assuming the thermostat is set to 500F and thermocoupler senses 100F or whatever, it’s going to turn on. Some I am thinking a problem somewhere there. I definitely do not smell raw gas so thinking it’s not getting passed either the safety valve or thermostat.

Sorry PJ.
I have no clue as to your problem. Best you call a service company. Gas ovens can go BOOM.

George Mills

My old garlands had the same problem. Try adjusting the little screw out, on the left top of the thermostat. That seems to control gas flow. Right screw controls temp variation.

I got it working. It was the Pilot safety valve. Completely corroded inside.

Can anyone tell me what your burner orifice adjustment looks like? I guess it is going to depend a lot on your location, elevation and amount of make up air. In my case I have a TON (oven is outside).

I can only really tell the difference if I tighten it (decrease air:fuel ratio) and it gets very lazy flamed.

I think at this current setting, it’s got too much air, causing a yellow tip flame. I am going to try tightening it next time.