I would need a whole lot more info than you gave to determine if this is apples to apples. My grease hood quote includes (“Grease hood” as opposed to a simple heat exhaust hood) all stainless, integral makeup air chamber and both exhaust and makeup air collars.
You didn’t mention the ansul fire suppression, so I am thinking we are talking two different creatures. The ansul system alone runs $1500 to $2000 without the install and charge up. That piece is an essential for grease hoods over fryers and stovetops for sautee.
I can find a simple 8’ galvanized steam/heat exhaust hood with one fan online several places for about $1800 to $1900 . . . I can even get them close enough to pick up rather than ship. They just won’t meet my need or the fire code.
If you could tell me a website or contact info, I’d really love to find out if they can get me in the door for that price for hood plus fans. Cheapest I can find even for galvanized system is $3000 +/- $200 . . . and that is again without the fire suppression.
There is a national code for hoods also many states have even more stringent codes, countys usually enforce national or state codes and some cities are adding there own consepts.
The national code does not require fire protection for pizza ovens but many local fire marshals are requiring fire protection.
There are specific requirements for the amount of air exhausted depending on what equipment is under the hood and the size of the hood. There are UL or ETL tested and rated hoods that require much lower exhaust rates and much less make up air than required for unlisted hoods. Most all county and state jurisdictions require submittal of definitive blue prints showing all of the above and how all of the air exhausted is to be replaced at generally 68 degrees or warmer.
The best bet is to size your Air conditioning system to supply all your make up air.
I recommend that all of the above be checked and complied with so that some county or state inspector does not show up after the fact and condemn your system.
Hood guy came today to see the site and generate a quote . . . talk about a day. Should hear tomorrow the final numbers. Many thanks for the considered input you guys gave me. It was very helpful in conversing with the contractor and negotiating the whole thing.
I have a little more demo to do. He may be willing to work with me and help finance for 6 months the difference between 8’ and 10’. He had two guys leave him with 3 hoods on his loading dock . . . 8, 10, and 12. He’ll certianly move any of them quickly, but he has both the 8’ and the 10’ in hand and able to install whouth the fabrication delay. I’ll let you know how it goes.
This is definitely not going to be a do-it-yourself job given the locations and proliferation of wood to deal with in terms of combustibles. Big expense will be fire wrap for the exhaust duct going up. Cannot get the 16" to 18" clearance for combustibles . . . gotta use durarock alot of places and fire wrap the duct up to the tune of $7 per square foot. With a 24"x24" duct (add 10" to get wrap around) we look at $62.85 for each linear foot of duct wrapped. Could be into $500+ just to wrap the duct to get out the roof!
I don’t know the layout of your project but in many instances rather than going up through a roof we have found in less costly to go out a wall and up the outside of the building. That saves all the expensive insulating of the duct work.
Are you talking about fire-wrapping the duct up to the roof? Check to see if you can make double drywall chase and feed the duct through it. Might save you the fire wrap. Maybe, depends if your community has adopted the new standard, I think it’s called NF500
Yes, I was, because of the three rooflines in the title of the thread I like your suggestion, and will float it to the contractor. I can build a chase in my sleep after framing out 300 feet of walls! Heck, even if we have to use durarock (conctrete board), it would seem cheaper than the fire-wrap.
Sorry Nick, that was me–and my name isn’t nick. I have a double dry wall chase and no fire wrap. My community just switched into the new standard, so there is a shot you might get this to work. Make sure you have the proper clearance around the duct. Better the chase was wider than tighter.
As to the duct itself. It’s just mild steel they use. If you can track down a welder, he will know where to get the materials. Get yourself a welder & save some bucks. He can also weld and fab the transition peices if he has a metal brake. Maybe you know an hvac guy who has one. Good luck