We used to make them back in the late 60’s (when people used to think nothing of eating fried food). The trick to making them is to have an extensible dough that has good gluten development through fermentation. If you try to get the gluten development mechanically the dough will be too tight and either be poorly shaped or blow-out during frying. You’re correct in using 24-hour fermented dough, that’s what we used. The only real difference is that we used a strong bread type flour (Pillsbury, Seal of Minnesota) with about 12.6% protein content if I remember correctly. We also submerged them for frying as it worked so much better than surface frying. If you can find a used donut fryer with screens you can make all you want in a snap. As you fill and crimp the dough place it on a screen when the screen if full allow it to rest for an additional 10-minutes for the dough to relax a little, then transfer screen and all to the fryer, as the screen is lowered the calzones will float to the surface, immediately push them under the surface of the fat using a submersion screen and fry until golden brown. We liked them as a breakfast fare, filling with scrambled egg, precooked breakfast sausage, diced tomato, sauteed onion, mushrooms and green peppers, and creamy Ricotta along with a little Mozzarella cheese for the filling. They hold wonderfully well under heat lamps. NOTE: Do not cut vents into the top of the calzones as you would for oven baked.
Tom Lehmann/The Dough Doctor